Monday Morning Madness: Oceanic Veo 100 Dive Computer on Sale for $138.11

Live chat with K2 SCUBA You're receiving this newsletter because you SIGNED UP AT K2 Scuba and/or BOUGHT FROM US. Having trouble reading this email? View it in your browser Please add newsletter@k2scuba.com to your address book to ensure our emails reach your inbox. NEW ARRIVALS | WETSUITS | COMPUTERS | BCD's | REG's | TECHNICAL GEAR | SPRING BLOWOUTS We need your help, we are thinking of a trade up, trade in type thingy of your old gear. We buy it and give you $$$ towards your old gear. What gear would you like to trade in or trade up? We don't quite know what this looks like yet so could you email us at admin@k2scuba.com with your opinions? Local: 818 982 2652 Toll Free: 866 K2 Diving Also Coming In May: K2 Fandamily beach party/dive on the16th in Malibu Stay tuned. . . . .

Oceanic Shadow Scuba Diving Mask-Consumer Reviews Both Pro and Con

Maskwear that keeps you focused. 

 

Sleek 100% liquid silicone skirt attached directly to the tempered glass lens. No mask frame means the Shadow Series offers an incredible field of vision and packs flat. Available in 2 colors and 2 sizes for a perfect fit.

• No-frame design reduces weight and provides one of the largest fields-of-view

• Extremely low volume design

• Swiveling, easy adjusting buckles

• Ideal for hunters and photographers

• Perfect back-up mask as it folds and fits easily in your BC pocket

You can purchase the Oceanic Shadow Scuba Mask at K2 for $74.97

 

You can purchase the Oceanic Ion Mask at K2 for $69.95

You can purchase the Oceanic Mako Mask at K2 for $64.97

You can purchase the Oceanic Neo II Low Profile Mask at K2 for $64.97

 

30-DAY SATISFACTION GUARANTEE: We guarantee that at any time during the first 30 days of purchase, your Oceanic product fails to meet your expectations, that product may be exchanged by K2, a participating Authorized Oceanic Pro Dealer. No questions asked.

 

And Now, Reviews of the Oceanic Shadow:

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Jul 10 2008

Parker

Chandler, AZ

I am:

• Recreational Diver

Great View Underwater

★★★★★

5.0

PROS

• Does Not Fog
• Lens Quality
• Lightweight
• Range of Vision
• Snug Fit
• Soft Strap

CONS

• None

BEST USES

• Any other scuba diving
• Open Water Diving

"Although I have not taken the mask diving yet it is already my favorite. I used to used a Sphera from aqua sphere until I found out it was only tested to 30 ft., so I decided that since I had just enough money [$] I would go buy one.  When I tried on face it and the mini both fit amazingly, but I went with the bigger. When I took it in our pool I was in awe because the vision was sooooo much better than my sphera.

BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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Sep 21 2007

Bob

Q. Roo

I am:

• Advanced Diver
• Caver

★★★★★

5.0

PROS

• Lens Quality
• Range of Vision
• Snug Fit

CONS

• None

BEST USES

• Open Water Diving

"I have logged 72 dives with them since purchasing 2 of these masks. My face is somewhat narrow, and this model fits well, and is reasonably leak free with very little strap tension. Its comfort makes it very unobtrusive.

BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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Jason

Florida West Coast

I am:

• Advanced Diver

Bad Fit For Me

★★★☆☆

3.0

PROS

• Lens Quality
• Range of Vision

CONS

• Leaks
• Poor Fit

BEST USES

• Open Water Diving
• Recreation

"For some reason this mask is not right for my face. Very soft skirt and I love the look and feel of the mask. The mask leaks though. It must not be right for my face. I have an oval face and it does not fit right “unfortunately”. I do not recommend this mask for wide or oval faces. "

BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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Oct 11 2007

turk9

Romeoville, IL

I am:

• Recreational Diver

Comfortable

★★★★☆

4.0

PROS

• Range of Vision
• Snug Fit

CONS

• None

BEST USES

• Open Water Diving

"Soft skirt seals great and is comfortable, low volume reduces mask squeeze, frameless lens being closer to eyes gives very good field of vision. When new, lens tends to fog easily even after several cleanings with toothpaste, but gets better with usage. "

BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

Zeagle is Stepping Up with a 30% Off Deal for it’s 30th Birthday Paarty!

30 Years of Gear

Zeagle celebrates 30 years of creating Innovative Dive Products with 30% Discounts!

Dennis G. Bulin, President and Founder of Zeagle Systems, Inc. traveled back and forth many times from his home state of Wisconsin in the 1970s to skydive in sunny Florida. Dennis settled in Zephyrhills, Florida and started Zeagle Systems in 1979 as a one-man operation, building parachute equipment and accessories.  His interests shifted from skydiving to SCUBA when he became an active diver.  Dennis combined the company's technological expertise in manufacturing skydiving equipment with the knowledge of technical and sport diving techniques to design personal buoyancy control devices and other products for SCUBA diving.  The success of Zeagle's innovative approach to buoyancy compensator design led the way for Zeagle to become a respected worldwide supplier and manufacturer of diving equipment.

Zeagle is celebrating its 30^th birthday with a present for our consumers, new and old.

Zeagle is kicking off our 30th year of manufacturing by offering discounts all Spring.  Please visit K2, your Zeagle dealer for this spendiferous deal!

Hurry, discount program ends June 21st.

Loyalty Rewards!
Purchase (or have purchased in the past) a Zeagle Regulator, BC, computer or drysuit and qualify for a 30% discount on your next Zeagle purchase

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Upgrade your old gear!
Trade-in ANY BC or Regulator for 30% off any Zeagle BC or Regulator

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Referral program!
Bring in a new student and receive a 30% discount on your next Zeagle item purchased

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Download a copy of the Z30 promotional poster here

Check out some of Zeagle's newest products!

Limited time offer, Contact your Zeagle dealer for Z30 discount coupon. Discounts off MSRP, offer
excludes Scout BC, Escape BC, N2iTioN PC Download Kit, and any close out items. Offer ends June 21, 2009.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Mark Your Calendar Gurls and Guys, K2 Beach Party/Dive on the 18th of April at Laguna Beach

Yup, you heard it, where the Housewives of Orange County Congregate.

WE are going to have a blow out Beach Party K2 Family Beach Day and BBQ (with a lil diving included)

An event for the K2 Family, Divers and Non Divers Alike

Host:

Team K2 SCUBA So Cal Hardcore Beach Divers

http://www.meetup.com/K2-Scuba-Meetup-Group/calendar/10111840/

Type:

Party - Barbecue

Date:

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Time:

9:00am - 4:00pm

Location:

Heisler Park Picnic Benches

Street: 375 Cliff Dr, Laguna Beach,

Laguna Beach, CA

 

 

Phone: 818 982 2652

Email:

admin@k2scuba.com

Description

Lets all meet at Heisler, fun starts at 9a with a dive at 10a, 1p, and for the most hardcore of all of us 4p. In the meantime catching up with old and meeting new friends, family friendly and snorkeling for the nondiver also. Oceanic and Dive Rite will be providing demo gear to use and play with. This is going to be a pot luck so please sign up with stuff you are going to bring for yourself and others. This is K2 family so I am sure generosity abounds.

Well, get off of your hoffity and post what you are going to bring!

Tevis

The Basic Six Fundamental Skills that New Divers Need, but were Never Taught Properly

This is seeded by my friend, and Master Instructor Duane Johnson of www.precisiondiving.net

 

The Recreational Scuba Training Council (RSTC) is the training council that determines the minimum skills that need to be taught for scuba diving classes. Most of the big training agencies such as PADI, NAUI, SDI, and SSI are all members of the RSTC and therefore have adopted the minimal skills required by the RSTC. In the basic open water class, there are 20 skills that students are required to master. Some of these skills are more useful than others such as regulator and mask skills that we use on every dive. There are 6 basic skills that we must master in order to lay a strong foundation for sound diving.

The basic 6 skills of diving are progressive. So as we go through the basic 6, please remember that every skill will be a small piece of the next skill. The basic 6 are the following:

1) Regulator Removal and Replacement - This skill is simply taking the regulator out of your mouth, re-inserting it in your mouth, and clearing the water out of the reg. When we take the regulator out of our mouth, we don’t want to cover the front of it with our hand. This may restrict access to the purge button when doing air shares. Remember, each skill builds upon the previous one. So let’s get into the habit of doing it right the first time. Some training agencies teach that if the regulator is out of your mouth, you should be blowing tiny bubbles. The theory behind this is that if you start to ascend while holding your breath, then the risk of rupturing a long is strongly increased. However, if you hold a normal breath and your buoyancy doesn’t change, then the risk of rupturing a lung is not high. This is simple physics. Gas expands as we ascend, but if we are neutrally buoyant, the gas doesn’t expand. Of course, if you start to ascend, start blowing those tiny bubbles.

2) Regulator Switch - This is pretty simple. We remove the regulator from our mouth and clip it off to the right chest d-ring. Then put the backup regulator in your mouth and clear it. Are you starting to see how skill #1 comes into play? If can’t put a regulator into your mouth and clear it, you can’t switch to another regulator (buddies or your own backup). We clip off the long hose to make sure it isn’t hanging down to catch on something. It also builds the muscle memory for doing a gas switch in technical diving.

3) Regulator Recovery and Replacement - If your regulator comes out of your mouth for any reason, it should be a time to panic. Simply put the backup regulator on the bungee necklace into your mouth, clear it, and then find the primary reg. We can find the primary regulator by rolling slightly to our right. That should drop the regulator down and we should be able to find it by feeling our right shoulder with our left hand. If we cannot find it, then we can simply find the long hose as it is coming around our torso and follow it with our hands. The second stage is guaranteed to be at the end of the long hose. Once we find the primary regulator, remove the backup and insert the primary and clear it.

These first three skills build the foundation for even more critical skills such as doing air shares and gas switching.

4) Mask Flood and Clear - This is one that everyone should have learned in their open water class. Simply flood the mask by cracking it from the top to let the water in. To clear the mask, crack the bottom seal, exhale through the nose and look up slightly. This will fill the mask with air and force the water out of the bottom. If you try to clear by cracking the mask seal from the top, the air will force water to the bottom of the mask. Thus not getting all of the water out of the mask. This skill is where the low volume masks are a great benefit. A low volume mask doesn’t have much of an air space between the class and your face. This means that it doesn’t take a lot of air from your nose to clear the mask. Also remember never to over exhale when clearing the mask. This causes your buoyancy to change.

5) Mask Removal and Replacement - This skills is critical in the event your mask comes off and you have to switch to a backup mask. Not having a mask on, should not be a situation for panic. Situational and buddy awareness comes into play here. If you see your buddy’s mask come off, you should be right there with your backup mask out. To perform this skill, simply flood your mask as mentioned in skill #4, but do not remove the mask just yet. This allows us to get used to the cold water on our face. If we were to yank our mask off and that cold water hits us, our first response is to inhale. Many times, through our nose. That means we suck in some water. But if we keep the mask on, let it flood for a breath or two, then take it off it helps to reinforce that we need to remain calm when the colder water hits our face. Now we can take the mask off our head. When replacing the mask, first locate the nose pocket. This gives us a reference point as to the orientation of the mask. This makes sure that we are not putting on the mask up side down. Do you see the link from skill #4 to now?

 

 

6) Modified S-Drill - The S-Drill is also known as the safety drill. The full safety drill, simply put, is the air sharing drill. The modified s-drill is the mechanics of donating the long hose, switching to your backup, and re-stowing the long hose when done. The modified s-drill, you donate the primary regulator with your right hand, by grabbing the hose, and “unwrapping” the hose from around your head. When you grab the hose, your palm is facing your. To donate, remove the regulator from your mouth, raise your hand straight up then in front of you. While doing this, rotate your hand such that your palm is no facing away from you. This will put the regulator into the correct position such that the out of gas diver just has to open up, insert the regulator, and clear it. Remember to keep the mouthpiece facing down as to prevent free flow. So once you have donated the primary and extended it in front of you, switch to your backup and clear it. No move the regulator to your left hand, while keeping it extended in front of you. With your right hand, form an “O” with your thumb and index fingers around the hose. Trace the hose back to your right hip. If you have a canister light, un-tuck the hose from under it. If your hose is tucked into your waist belt, pull it out. Then windmill your right arm up and to the front of you while holding onto the hose. This will clear the long hose from behind the wing. Now the long hose is fully deployed. To re-stow the long hose, trace the hose with your right hand, windmill the hose back behind you so that it is behind the wing, tuck the hose under your canister light or into your waist belt. Now you form a small bend in the hose, with the reg in your right hand now, such that it is just big enough to go over your head and not get caught on your valves behind you. Loop the hose over your head and switch from your backup to the primary and clear it. Finally, trace the long hose so that you can verify it is in the correct position. Don’t forget to turn your head to the left. If the reg feels like it wants to come out, then somewhere the long hose is too tight and needs a little more slack so you can turn your head comfortably.

These are the basic 6 skills of diving that form the foundation for many other skills. As you can see, each build upon previous skills. The modified s-drill now uses skills 1-3 as part of the drill. As with all skills, these should be done while neutrally buoyant and with good trim.

Please feel free to ask any questions or post any comments.

Dive Safe,
Duane Johnson
Precision Diving

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A Dangerous Case of Nitrogen Narcosis

 

Hi Folks, I'm seeding this from my friend Scuba Mike of Gordismo.  Please read this with a open mind and keep it as a foundational lesson.  I dive regularly to deep depths to get the rush of narcosis, tho’ if not respected it sets a diver up to a word of hurt!

 

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It was only a week ago that I wrote a post about narcosis, and this weekend I dealt with my first example of quite serious narcosis. We were diving at Playa Chica, here in Lanzarote, and here’s what happened:

My buddy was an experienced diver, but he hadn’t dived for several months, so we agreed to do a check out at 10 meters before heading deeper onto the house reef. His buoyancy  was a little off, but everything else was fine, so off we went. As we reached the drop off and descended though 20, then 25 meters, I watched him carefully and all seemed well.

It was when we hit 30 meters that he started to act strangely. I saw him grab his contents gauge and stare at it for what seemed a long time. I was also conscious that he was continuing to sink slowly in a upright position. I signaled him to tell me how much air he had, but he just continued to look at his gauge. It was as if he couldn’t get his brain to work properly. I signaled to ask if he was OK, and after an age he gave me the sign for a problem in the head. I moved close to him to check his eyes, and they conveyed confusion and fear, so I took both his hands (which were shaking) and we finned upwards, with me watching his eyes.

At 25 meters, he suddenly relaxed and I could see the change in his eyes – they came back to normal and he signaled that he was OK. It was dramatic the way he went in seconds from being scared and confused, to being back in control. I signaled that we should stay at 25 meters, and told the other divers that we would hover over them while they carried on exploring the reef.

After about five minutes my buddy told me that he wanted to descend again, so we did, and I watched him very carefully as we went through 30 meters again, and all was fine.

We had a good dive, seeing a couple of huge grouper, a playful spider crab and one of my favorite fish, an Angel Shark. The shark was resting on the sea bed, well covered with sand and was spotted by another diver. We had the pleasure of seeing it move off – it’s amazing the way the dorsal fins unfold, the sand is shrugged off and with one whole body flick, the shark is gone and way.

This was a good lesson for me about narcosis – it can strike at any time and can come on very quickly, but by taking the right action it can be “cured” just as quickly.

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Thanks Mike!  Please visit him at Scuba Mike's blog.  This begs the question if his divebuddy had an inattentive SOB (same ocean buddy) accompanying him?  Worst case scenario, he would drowned by sucking the bottom of his tank while confused.

This is one of the most salient reasons for team oriented diving as previously written in this crazy kool blog!

Tevis

If what you read here is even .01% meaningful to you, please Digg us, Stumble us, or save us to Del.icio.us using the icons following each post. Be sure to subscribe to this blog’s RSS Feed and our newsletter too, if so inclined, deposit your email address by using the form to the right or click here! Thanks for visiting and dive safe out there, will you?

SCUBA Basics for the New Scuba Diver: Wetsuits

Even in the tropics, divers have to guard against thermal loss, but for divers who blow bubbles in chilly, temperate conditions--water ranging from the low 50s to the low 70s--staying warm is imperative. When the water's this cold, it doesn't take much to get uncomfortably chilled and stay that way. Good news: Today's 7mm wetsuits offer better fit, features, comfort and thermal protection than ever before. Let's review how a wetsuit really works.

Wetsuit Basics

Wetsuits are made with neoprene rubber, a closed-cell foam that traps millions of tiny gas bubbles. These bubbles inthe neoprene act as insulation, and this, combined with a snug, sealed fit that minimizes the amount of cold water that enters the suit, is what keeps your body heat from escaping. In order for a wetsuit to keep you warm, it should: 1) be thick enough for the temperature of the water you're diving in, 2) have seams, seals and zippers that minimize water intrusion, and most important, 3) fit like a second skin.

Materials

Stretch vs. Warmth A layer of material, usually nylon, lines each side of a wetsuit's neoprene rubber. The purpose of the outer layer is to provide some protection for the neoprene, while the inner layer, or lining, is more for comfort. Some suits use no inner lining, and instead have a smooth-skin interior. This offers more warmth because the whole suit seals against your skin, minimizing or even eliminating water flow, a key feature of an effective wetsuit. The downside: wetsuits with smooth-skin interiors, with some notable exceptions, are more difficult to put on and take off, and the inside of the suit is more prone to damage. The trend in recent years, especially in 7mm suits, is toward more stretchy neoprene to increase comfort and flexibility. An Xcel 3mm stretchier suit is easier to put on, is super comfortable and is able to maintain a snug fit by conforming to your body. The downside: stretchier neoprene compresses more at depth than denser, stiffer, standard-stretch neoprene, reducing its insulation capabilities. Because of this, some wetsuit manufacturers use more traditional compression-resistant neoprene, which is then cut into anatomically shaped panels and sewn together to add flexibility.

 

Seams

Keep Them Watertight Nearly all seams on 7mm wetsuits are glued and blind-stitched. First, the suit's neoprene panels are glued with two or three coats of neoprene cement. Next, the seams are sewn together to prevent them from pulling apart. This is done with a blind-stitch, where a needle penetrates only the top layer of the material on either side of the seam, without punching all the way through the neoprene. There are slightly different methods used in creating a durable waterproof seam. One is running a bead of liquid silicone-based urethane over the glued seam on the opposite side of a blind-stitched seam, making one side of the seam look like it's been "welded" together. This process is more waterproof, since you're not poking holes in the neoprene on one side, and more durable because the liquid weld bonds to the seam virtually everywhere contact has been made, rather than just at the stitch points. Glued-and-taped is another method, where flexible bonding tape is applied with heat and pressure over the glued seam on both sides, eliminating the need for any stitches at all.

 

Seals

The More the Better Some water always seeps into a wetsuit, but the goal is to keep it to a minimum. The most common water entry points, in order of importance, are the neck, wrists and ankles. Some manufacturers put sealing systems on these entry points. Starting with the most effective, they are: A note on neck seals: 7mm suits are designed for temperate to cold water, environments that require not only a thick suit but a hood. Most wetsuit hoods tuck inside the collar, but this generally breaks whatever neck seal the wetsuit has. If you wear a standard wetsuit hood, don't worry about what kind of neck seal the wetsuit has; instead, tuck in the hood and then adjust the collar as snug as possible to minimize water flow. If the wetsuit has a first-rate neck seal and you don't want to lose it, consider wearing a dry suit hood. These overlap the collar rather than tuck inside, maintaining the integrity of the seal. Another option: some manufacturers offer wetsuit hoods that have a band of smooth-skin sewn around the neck. Tuck the hood into the collar of the suit so that the smooth-skin band makes contact with the smooth-skin neck seal. They bond together, preserving the seal and keeping you dry, warm and comfortable.

 

Zippers

Often Overlooked Choosing a 7mm suit with a vertical back zipper or one with a horizontal front zipper is a matter of preference. Front-zipper suits tend to be easier to put on, but the zipper track can affect flexibility in the chest and shoulder areas. Back zippers lay in line with the spine and tend to be more comfortable, but you may need help when zipping up. Whether back or front, the zipper creates the greatest potential for water entry. To combat this, most suits have a zipper underflap that lies between a diver's bare back and a heavy-duty zipper track, which helps block water flow (and adds cushioned comfort). Some suits use two sections of smooth-skin neoprene, one on each edge of the zipper track . When the zipper is zipped up, the two sections of smooth-skin seal against each other. Finally, a couple of suits use zippers with overlapping teeth that reduce water seepage, and here and there, you'll find a 7mm suit with a dry suit-type zipper with its teeth sandwiched between layers of rubber that create a truly watertight seal.

Fit

The Ultimate Challenge Of course, none of the above--the seals, the seams, the zippers--matters if the wetsuit doesn't fit. Gaps in your armpits and spaces between your legs, behind your knees or along your spine fill up and pump water inside your suit, sucking the heat out of you. A properly fitting suit fits your body like a second skin, with no gaps or spaces. Finding a good fit can be difficult: Everyone has a unique shape, and even standard sizes like small, medium and large differ by manufacturer. Some suits tend to be designed for muscular divers, others fit lean divers better. Some manufacturers offer a dizzying array of sizes, others offer only the basics. Bottom line: To get a snug-fitting suit, try on as many as you can. If you can't find a stock suit that fits, find a manufacturer that offers custom-made suits. The Xcel Thermstretch Bamboo above to the right retails for $429. We one of the few master Xcel dealers that has the spank brand new 2009 Thermostretch Bamboo line of completely green wetsuit fullsuits. Please give us and call and come in to see this amazing technology in wetsuit wear. Xcel hasn't yet decided to advertise their dive wetsuits on the internet so email us at custsvc@k2scuba.com and we will email you the pics and specs of this new product!